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Hanging Quilts II

July 9, 2010

Since there were no comments on this topic I assume everyone’s happy with their method for hanging quilts, or you’re just waiting to see what I have to share :-). Either way here are my thoughts:

I usually hang my quilts with a “Split Sleeve” and a 1/2″ wooden dowel:

1. Measure the width of the quilt, subtract an inch, divide this measurement by 2 and cut 2 pieces this length by 4″.

2.  Hem both ends of each strip folding 1/4″ to the wrong side and topstitching. 

3. Prior to binding the quilt, fold each strip lengthwise, wrong sides together, and pin in place with the raw edges even with the top edge of the quilt and a 1/2″ gap between the sleeves.

4. Attach the binding, catching the sleeves in along the top edge (but not on the sides).

5.  Finish binding as usual and then handstitch the bottom edge of the sleeves to the back of the quilt, being careful not to stitch through to the front.

6.  Cut the dowel the width of the quilt and insert.

The split in the sleeve allows a small quilt to hang from a single nail. A larger quilt may be hung with a nail on each end. If the quilt is quite large and heavy, an additional nail may be added for support in the middle or a larger dowel/sleeve may be needed. (tip: it’s easier to see and use the sleeve if it doesn’t match the back!)

In my last post I pictured a quilt hung “on-point”. A simple way to do this is to make a sleeve 2″ shorter than the horizontal width of the quilt and attach it across the widest part (isn’t it hard to see when the fabric matches?). Insert a dowel that length.

Stitch a Plastic ring (I find them with knitting supplies) to the top and hang the quilt with a single nail on this ring. Easy and effective!

Any other quilt hanging tips or suggestions???

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7 comments

  1. I am new to quilting and this has always puzzled me. These tips are great, especially for the quilt hung on point. Thank you


  2. Chris, you helped me learn something new. I did know how to make a sleeve for hanging, but never knew why the ‘split’ in it. Great for small quilts indeed. I did not know about the hanging on point tip either, so thanks for teaching all of us new ways and ideas.


  3. For small quilts like less than 18 inches I like to take two four inch squares, iron each in half on the diagonal and then put one in each top corner on the wrong side of the quilt. When you sew the binding on they get caught in the seam allowance. You then stitch your binding in place. The triangles form a half pocket on each side of the quilt so you can slip a dowel or a ruler or a chop stick or a broken arrow (Not a bad idea if you work at a boys camp!)in this”pocket”. Then it sam be hung with just one nail (Or a sewing machine needle that is not sharp enough anymore) I think Ami Sims has a good description of this on her web site if it does not make sense.


  4. Hi Chris
    Great suggestions. I also place a casing and rod along the bottom of my quilts. This weights the quilts so they hang straight and don’t ripple along the bottom edge.


  5. HI Chris..I like to hang quilts so they seem to float, and you do not have to put nails (and holes) in the wall that later need to be covered. In my house I have a picture rail that goes around every wall in every room and is 1 foot from the ceiling…this is a special molding with a rounded top. Pictures, etc are hung from hooks that fit the rounded top of the molding (hooks can be purchased at hardware stores, molding at HomeDepot, Lowes, etc). IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THE MOLDING, two small finishing nails on the wall at ceiling height do the job. I use a 4″ rod pocket and for the hanging rod, I use the front part of a 3 inch continental curtain rod…it extends to fit several size quilts and does not warp. I use 25# test nylon fishing line as my hanger,attaching both ends to the holes in the rod, and adjusting the length of the line to hang the quilt (picture) at the height I want it. One of the advantages of this is that once the rod is horizontally positioned it will not move. Also the quilt is flat to the wall due to the flatness of the rod….If you use nails at the ceiling they need to the be width of the quilt…you can have several nail in a line for different size quilt and they are virtually unnoticeable. Happy hanging. Claire oh, by the way, with the picture molding you can move your quilts and pictures frequently with no holes in the walls.


  6. I also do the split casing and then use a flat piece of wood [think an old yardstick] rather than a dowel. Dick uses a toothed picture hanger which hammers into the flat wood and then hangs it from a small nail.


  7. These are all great ideas. I make a one piece casing across the width of the quilt and use 1/4″ thick lattice wood strip, available in Home Depot (it comes 6′ or 8′ long). Cut it 1″ shorter than the quilt width. In each end, screw in an eyelet screw-the circle of the eyelet will be parallel to the wall. Put small nails in wall and slip the eyelets on the nails.
    The lattice strip lays flat against the wall, which is good.The only downside to this method is that I now have 2 nail holes in the wall. If I take down the quilt and hang a smaller painting in its place-well, I’m stuck with two holes showing.
    So, I may try Claire’s method with fishing line. Her molding strip is great too-that’s how we had to hang pictures in our dorm rooms in the 1960s!



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